1. Clear away any leaves or debris.
2. Dig a trench 3″-4″ deep along the edge of the bed where it meets a hard surface, such as a walkway or grass, and dispose of the excess soil.
3. Loosen up any hard-packed mulch layer.
4. Apply weed control, if desired, or lay weed barrier fabric.
5. Spread the mulch evenly and smooth it out. Aim for a depth of 3″. Keep the top of the mulch 1″ below the edge of the walkway or grass and 4″-6″ below the siding of your house. Don’t bury trunks or stems of plants; create mulch mounds, or bury the tree trunk of your trees. A depth of 3″-4″ is ideal for mulch to effectively hold moisture, prevent weeds, add organic matter to the soil, and improve the appearance of your property.”

Follow our general guidelines in Tip #1: How To Install Mulch Like A Pro. Color Enriched Mulch is different in that the colorant is not colorfast until the product is spread and has 6-8 hours to dry in the sun. The process of coloring mulch is much like staining a deck and needs time to dry. Follow these tips for the best results.

1. Dump Bulk Mulch onto a tarp. When possible, it is recommended to have the mulch delivered onto a tarp. This will avoid possible staining of a driveway and speeds cleanup.
2. Wet Surface Immediately for Cleanup – Rinse the driveway immediately after spreading the mulch before the colorant can dry.
3. Use Soap and Water – If there is some staining from colored mulch, promptly wash the surface with soap and water. Work the surface with a stiff brush or broom to remove the stain.
4. Avoid Rainy Days – Watch the weather forecast and avoid spreading just before the rain. Light rain will not harm the mulch, but a heavy downpour can wash off some of the colorants before it dries and sets.
5. Turn the mulch over once – at mid-season, or if there is some color wash-off, turn the mulch over with a rake or fork to expose fresh dark mulch.
6. Wear old clothing – the colorant can stain clothes. It is best to wear gloves and long sleeves while spreading colored mulch. Color Enriched Mulch from Leonberg Nursery will beautify your home for up to a year!

Installing stone in your landscape can provide a long-lasting, attractive feature. YLM Supply offers a range of options, including natural round stones and crushed angular stones.

• Natural round stone, also known as gravel, is sourced from the local region and comes in different colors and sizes, from 3/8 inch to 4-foot boulders. It’s commonly used in landscape beds and around pools.
• Crushed stone, sourced from neighboring states, is available in grey (Pennsylvania), red (Pennsylvania), Texas white (Maryland), and Dixie pink (Maryland) and is used for driveways, drainage projects, under sheds, and landscaping. It’s available in sizes from 3/8 inch to 4-foot boulders. Quarry blend or modified base, as well as stone dust, can be used as a compacted base under pavers, bricks, sheds, or concrete.

When installing stone, it’s best to use woven landscape fabric (not plastic) to provide stability, drainage, and weed control.

Improving the soil in South Jersey is crucial for a healthier garden. Organic matter is the most important aspect that South Jersey soils need. Regardless of whether the soil is heavy clay or sandy, adding organic matter can significantly improve soil structure, provide slow-release nutrients, enhance water retention, and increase the amount of organic matter in the soil. The ideal soil for plants should have at least 5% organic matter.

Another important aspect is the addition of lime. Acid rain and fertilizers tend to lower the soil’s pH, making it difficult for plants to absorb nutrients. Adding lime to the soil every few years helps maintain a pH range of 6.0-6.5, which is ideal for most plants. Neglecting to add lime can result in ineffective fertilizer use, and thus it is recommended to do so if you haven’t done so in recent years.

Sodding a lawn provides immediate, finished results and is more expensive than seeding. To prepare for sodding, it’s important to work the soil to create a smooth and uniform grade. The soil should be low enough to account for the thickness of the sod, especially near sidewalks or driveways. Before installing, you can apply starter fertilizer and lime.

There are two main types of sod: a bluegrass mix and a fescue/rye/bluegrass mix. Bluegrass provides high-quality turf but requires more maintenance in the form of water, fertilizer, and chemicals. Fescue is not as fine-textured but is more resilient in drought and under lower maintenance.

When installing, it’s important to have the preparation done and to install the sod immediately upon delivery. The first strip of sod should be laid in a straight line, and the joints in each row should be staggered. The strips can be cut to fit irregular areas using a large knife or sharp shovel.

After installation, water immediately and then at least once a day until the sod has rooted (usually 7-10 days later). Once rooted, taper off the watering schedule. You can start mowing 7-14 days after installation once the sod is well rooted.

Preparation: To prepare the soil for seeding, work it to obtain a smooth and uniform grade. Scrape down high spots and fill in low spots. Apply starter fertilizer and lime, but avoid using a fertilizer with crabgrass or broadleaf weed control, as it will harm new grass seedlings.

Seeding: Choose a high-quality grass seed of good purity, such as a Turf Tall Fescue/Perennial Rye mix. Spread the seed evenly, using a spreader if possible, and lightly mix it into the top 1/4 inch of soil. Cover the area with mulch, such as straw, peat moss, or green seeding fiber, to conserve moisture and reduce seed loss.

Watering: Water the seeded area immediately after seeding and keep the soil moist at all times. Use a programmable sprinkler timer to water at regular intervals. Taper off watering after the seed has germinated and is well established.

Mowing: Start mowing when the seed has grown to 3 inches, but be careful when moving a new lawn, as the new grass is tender. Mow frequently to reduce weed competition.

Fertilizing: Apply a good-quality lawn fertilizer four weeks after seeding.

Pruning is a crucial aspect of maintaining the health, size, and shape of trees and shrubs. When pruning, aim to retain the natural form of the plant, avoiding excessive shaping into a ball. Most plants have an inherent tendency to grow towards light and tend to be wider at the base than the top, which should be preserved. Timing of pruning is important, and it should be done in line with the plant’s growth cycle.

TREES – Trees typically require minimal pruning. Newly planted trees should have their lower branches elevated or pruned as they grow to encourage upward growth and natural shape. Remove any broken, dead, or diseased branches as needed. Winter is the best time to prune most trees when they are dormant before the sap starts flowing.

EVERGREEN SHRUBS – Evergreens can be trimmed at any time, but it’s usually best to do so in early summer after new growth has emerged. For flowering evergreens like Azaleas and Rhododendrons, pruning should be done immediately after flowering. Avoid pruning in late summer, as it may trigger new growth that may not survive winter.

DECIDUOUS SHRUBS – Deciduous shrubs should be pruned after flowering, as new growth provides next year’s flowers. Some older branches should be thinned to provide new wood for the plant’s future.

HEDGES – Hedges require regular pruning to maintain their shape, but most are trimmed incorrectly. The base should always be wider than the top to allow light to reach the bottom and keep the plant full at the base.

In conclusion, it’s essential to avoid over-pruning and maintain the natural form of your plantings. Using gas or electric hedge shears can save time, but they should be used carefully to retain the plant’s natural shape.